threeweeks guide to edinburgh

As the historic capital city of Scotland, and a darn nice capital city at that, Edinburgh does its best to attract a healthy population of tourists all year round - it doesn't close down after the Festival, you know. While you're round these parts it's worth donning your backpack, charging up your camera, buying a map and doing the tourist bit. The locals love it when you block narrow footpaths while unfolding a map on a windy day. There's a multitude of touristy things to do in Edinburgh, but ignoring the Castle, Holyrood Palace and St Giles Cathedral because they're too damn obvious, here's ten things we would recommend you try.

First, there's the Museum of Childhood, the story of childhood through the ages with toys galore. It's the best fun to be had in this city, just don't take the kids. Though if you do it's a bargain day out because admission is free. 42 High Street, open Mon - Sat 10am - 5pm; Sun 2pm - 5pm (during the Edinburgh Festival only), 0131 529 4142.

Second, the National Gallery of Modern Art. This excellent gallery has both a permanent collection and regular temporary exhibits, and was showcasing the best in modern art long before the Tate Modern opened its bridge. Set in extensive parkland not only is this a must-see location for modern art fans, it also makes for a relaxing way of getting away from it all - which is why we included it in Getting Away too. Entrance to the main collection is free, special exhibs have an entry fee somewhere between £1 and £6. Belford Road, open 10am - 5pm Mon-Sat, 2pm – 5pm Sun. 0131 624 6200.

Third, the Scott Monument, in my humble opinion is the ugliest thing in Edinburgh (excluding the University's Appleton Tower, but that doesn't claim to be a great example of architecture). Whether Sir Walter Scott agrees I don't know (the City built the thing his memory in 1832). But there are spectacular views at the top and it provides an excellent way to see Edinburgh without having to look at the Scott Monument, which has to be good. £2.50 and many steps between you and the top. Princes Street, open Mon - Sat 9am - 6pm, Sun 10am - 6pm (Apr - Sep)

Fourth, the Royal Museum of Scotland. Bit of split opinion here. They were building the flash new bit of the Royal Museum for what seemed like decades so when it opened I thought I ought to visit, and I have to say I was a bit disappointed. But on a straw poll of the extended ThreeWeeks team four people included the Museum in their lists, so I guess we have to include it here. The bit with the stuffed animals is good, and they've got quite a nice coffee shop. I'm sure there's lots more too, and now admission is free again I shouldn't complain really. Chambers Street, open 10am-5pm Mon - Sat, 10am-8pm Tue and 12 noon-5pm Sun, 0131 247 4219.

Fifth, an Open Top Bus Ride. Cheesy choice and very touristy, but a good way to see the sights and learn a little from one of the knowledgable guides. Not so cheap though - a 50 minute tour will set you back £8.50 (£2.50 for under 15s, and £7.50 for students and OAPs). Particularly fun on wet windy days - the buses have a habit of flooding in a comedy manner. Trips depart from Waverley Bridge, outside the station, tours leave every ten minutes. Call 0131 556 2244 for details of first and last your times - they vary throughout the year.

Sixth, the Camera Obscura. At the top of the Royal Mile, inside you can see a live projection of the city outside on the table before you. Outside you get some of the best views of Edinburgh (though you do have to look at the Scott Monument from here). They also have a collection of holograms, the most powerful public telescope in Britain (apparently), an exhibition of Edinburgh photography old and new and even some wacky mirrors. Fun for all the family, open 9.30am – 7:30pm (July and August), 0131 226 3709.

Seven, the Edinburgh Dungeon. Slightly less special once you discover the London Dungeon. And the York Dungeon. And the Hamburg Dungeon. But Edinburgh's got enough deadly secrets in its history to fill this chamber of horrors style museum come fair-ground attraction and while its £7.95 to get in (£6.50 for students, £5.50 for kids and OAPs) it compares well with many festival shows in both price and entertainment value. Market Street, open daily 10am - 7pm (Jul-Aug) 0131 240 1000.

And, eighth, if its Edinburgh's seedy past you're after you should definitely try a ghost walk with either Witchery Tours, Mercat or Auld Reekie's Underground Tours. Beneath the Old Town of Edinburgh are numerous layers of vaults which stored all sorts of things in olden times, including people when the city got so crowded there was nowhere else to live (until they built the New Town that is). These underground vaults are now disused and many are still hidden away. The three ghost walk companies will take you around the spookier parts of the Old Town describing the city's haunted past, before taking you underground into their section of the vaults. Even the most cynical might start to wonder... Witchery Tours leave from outside the Witchery Restaurant on Castle Hill, a 90 minute tour costs £7.50 (adults) £5 (children) call 0131 225 6745 for start times, alternatively you can visit their website, www.witcherytours.com/tours.html

Mercat Tours leave from the Mercat Cross, High Street, Royal Mile next to St Giles Cathedral, a 90 minute tour costs £7.50 adults, £7 concession, call 0131 557 6464 for start times or visit their website, www.mercattours.com/tours/

Auld Reekie tours leave from the Tron Church on the Royal Mile, the 90 minute tour costs £6 adults, £5 concessions and £4 children. Visit the website, www.auldreekietours.co.uk/default.htm or call 0131 557 4700 for starting times. Tour organisers suggest you book by phone first.

Nine, the Botanical Gardens, also doubling up in our Getting Away section. What can we say? Beautiful grounds. Lots of glass houses. Definitely the place to detox during the Fringe. Simple as that really. Admission is free though donations are welcome. Inverleith Row, open daily to 7pm (Apr - Aug), 0131 552 7171.

And finally, the opposite of a detox attraction, number ten is the Whisky Heritage Centre. Learn about the making of Scotch Whisky, investigate the model distillery, swot up on Scotland's whisky regions, take the 'Whisky Barrel Ride' back in time, and then drink your free dram of whisky, sample a few more in the Whisky Bond Bar & Bistro and buy a few bottles to take home from their gift shop. It's called education. 354 Castlehill, open daily 9.30am - 6.30pm (May to Sep) last admission an hour before closing, adult £8.50, child (under 18) £6.40, 0131 220 0441.