threeweeks guide to edinburgh

This is probably the most important part of this guide. Everyone needs to sit around drinking coffee, sit around drinking beer, meet friends or hold business meetings in this city at some point - especially in August. So here we go...

Booze first – a quick run down of our top ten pubs, bars and drinking dens...

(1) Dragonfly (52 West Port, EH1 2LD) a relatively new addition, on the site of the old fire station at the west end of the Grassmarket, Dragonfly is easily one of Edinburgh’s most stylish bars decorated with hugely lush retro opulence. Invariably packed with a great mix of people from art college cool-kids to sharply dressed after-work drinkers, it is, despite its sharp décor, one of the most attitude-free bars in the city.

(2) The Links Bar (4 Alvanley Terrace, EH9 1DU) Situated on the edge of Bruntsfield links, the Links Bar is the perfect Sunday afternoon hang-out for brunch before playing putting on Bruntsfield links. Very popular with students during term time and draws sports fans with its big screen.

(3) The Peartree (38 West Nicolson Street, EH8 9DD) is a pub with a relatively small interior but a pleasingly large beer garden. It's a huge favourite in Edinburgh because of this, and, so I'm told, because of the tasty lunches, although I've never eaten there myself.

(4) Villager (49-50 George IV Bridge, EH1 1EJ)From the same folk as Dragonfly, the Villager has a bit more of a laid back vibe. Great cocktails, excellent music, and classic Adidas sneakers displayed as art. Fringe die-hards should look out for posters for the once legendary Fringe venue Café Graffiti.

(5)Bar Khol (54 George IV Bridge, EH1 1EJ) Next door to the Villager, Bar Kohl has become a bit of an institution, known far and wide for its impressive line-up of flavoured vodkas.

(6) The Peartree (38 West Nicolson Street, EH8 9DD) Within easy staggering distance of the Pleasance Courtyard and Gilded Balloon, the Peartree has a relatively interior, but a pleasingly large beer garden. Huge favourite because of this, and usually standing room only as soon as there is the slightest glimpse of sun. Look out for the dangerously tasty barbeque.

(7) The Cumberland Bar (1-3 Cumberland Street, EH3 6RT) Also with a nice beer garden, the Cumberland is one of the highlights of the New Town. 5 minutes or so from the Assembly Rooms, and seconds from Aurora Nova, the Cumberland serves a good range of real ale. Packed out on Friday nights with staff from the various nearby banks.

(8) The Cloisters (26 Brougham Street, EH3 9JH) Another one for real ale fans, the Cloisters is at the western edge of the meadows, handily located for the Meadows Big Top, King’s Theatre, Filmhouse and Cameo cinema.

(9) The Standing Order (62-66 George Street, EH2 2LR) Staggering distance from the Assembly Rooms, this Wetherspoons bar is great for those who like their pubs cavernous and beer cheap. A bit hen party-tastic on Friday and Saturday nights, but worth a visit nevertheless.

(10) The Opal Lounge (51 George street, EH2 2HT) Directly across the road from the Assembly Rooms, Opal Lounge is the sort of place to flash some bling, neck cocktails, and indulge in a bit of star spotting.

Other favourites include The Blind Poet, on West Nicolson Street (38 West Nicolson Street, EH8 9DD). The Golf Tavern(30-31 Wright's Houses, EH10 4HR), The World's End (4 High Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1TB), Native State, (32-34 Potterow,EH8 9BT), City Café – legendary fry ups (19 Blair Street, EH1 1QR ), traditional Scottish pub Whistlebinkies (4 South Bridge, EH1 1LL) and finally The Jolly Judge (7 JamesCourt, Lawnmarket, EH1 2PB) which is tiny, tucked away and comfortable.

Honourable Mentions go to:

The Beehive: (18-20 Grassmarket,EH1 2AS) With an almost secret beer garden tucked away in the very heart of town, views of the castle are slightly exaggerated but that doesn’t not take away from its inherent charm.

Home St. (69 Home Street, EH3 9JP) Serving 2 pint steins – in other words, two pints in one huge glass – Home St is popular with thirsty people who don’t like standing waiting at bars.

Leslie’s Bar (45 Ratcliffe Terrace, EH9 1SU) The genuine article when it comes to old town pubs, its wood and traditional upholstery give it an authenticity that is hard to beat.

Bannermans (212 The Cowgate, EH1 1NQ) One of Edinburgh’s main live music venues, Bannermans is characterfully damp and cellar-like. Worth popping in during a Cowgate pub crawl, or for Tuesday night karaoke.

And Just in Case>> Remember the name The Penny Black (17 West Register Street, EH2 2AA) if you find yourself still out and drinking when the sun makes an uninvited appearance – the Penny Black opens at 6am, and everyone seems to end up here at some point. Don’t be surprised to find yourself sharing a table with one of the Fringe’s many Irish comedians.

And Relax>> For quiet Sunday afternoon type relaxation we recommend The Baillie in Stockbridge (2-4 St Stephen Street) or Maison Hector (47 Deanhaugh Street EH4 1LR) on account of its comfy chairs. Milne's Bar on Rose Street is another favourite.

We also love The Sheep’s Heid (43 The Causeway, Duddingston, Edinburgh, EH15 3QA), in Duddingston, for lunch, dinner and for making us feel like we've been transported to a country village despite the fact that we're still a couple of miles from the City centre. Walk to it through Holyrood Park in the early evening for the full experience.

For the sensible drinker there is The Canny Man (a bit of a trek up to 237 Morningside Road, EH10 4QU), The Hogshead (30-32 Bread Street EH3 9AF - near the Traverse, Usher Hall, Garage, also at 22 Rose Street) and The Guildford Arms (1 West Register Street).

If you're feeling artsy try the Traverse Theatre's roomy basement baror the Filmhouse Bar, which is also good for coffee and food. They claim to have the best cappuccino in town, and last time I went there they had soya milk to put in my friends tea, too, which I thought was pretty good.

Fringe Related>> During August most of the venues run their own bars and cafes. The Pleasance Bar and Courtyard is extraordinarily popular. As a large venue it's always got a lot of pre and post show punters but it also attracts people in their hundreds simply to drink in the courtyard on fine summer nights. The atmosphere is always good and has a definite Fringe buzz to it - not least because of all the fairy lights. If the weather is misbehaving (and, to be honest, Edinburgh in August can be fairly unreliable) or after the Pleasance Courtyard is closed, The Pleasance Dome or main Gilded Balloon venues on Bristo Square are worth a visit. The aforementioned Traverse and Filmhouse bars are very popular at Festival time, as are the various bars in The Underbelly. The bar at C Venues’ new site, C Electric in the old Odeon cinema on Clerk Street should also be worth a visit.

Coffee Anyone>> ThreeWeeks' favourite coffee haunt has historically been Favorit, (Teviot Place EH1 2QZ). Handy late opening and food until 3am makes it the ideal place for a midnight snack. We also like Negociants (45-47, Lothian St, EH1 1HB near the Pleasance Dome) for food and coffee, as well as drinks, although it does get scarily busy in the evening. Black Medicine is also recommended (2 Nicolson Street, close to Pleasance) as is The Forest Cafe (3 Bristo Place, Edinburgh, EH1 1EY) More venues for coffee include the lively BeanScene (99 Nicolson Street) with wireless internet access, tasty sandwiches and live music in the evenings, and Café Lucano, a haven for non-smokers (look out for the seriously cheap half prices sandwiches and pastries after 3pm.)